Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 2,000 feet
Time: 6 hours 20
Weather: Bright and sunny with only the odd snow squall. Cool rather than cold. Easterly breeze.
Conditions: Mixed paths initially, with snow and ice cover in places. Later open moorland and some snow drifts.
[photo: Team photo at Butt House]
I'm very reluctant to rank the places I've stayed. It doesn't seem right really, and the important thing is that they've all been excellent, beyond my expectations, and they've all served my needs perfectly at the time I needed them. There is nothing nicer after a long, hard, cold, wet day on the hills than coming down to a warm and comfortable lodging, and to be welcomed by a friendly face.
I am however going to break this rule, because one place really stands apart and is worthy of special mention. It may be bettered before the end of my coast to coast, but that is extremely unlikely, and if it is I will probably never leave.
Butt House is possibly the best B&B in England. It is situated at the top of the beautiful isolated village of Keld. The welcome by owners Tony and Linda is the warmest you'll come across. They are genuinely interested in you and your story, but not overbearing, and seem to find the right balance between being there all the time when you need them and leaving you to do your own thing.
The place is warm, clean and comfortable. The rooms are equipped as you would expect and there is a dining room and living room downstairs shared by the guests. Last night it was just the Pickering party. We had the place to ourselves.
It really is the hospitality though that makes the place. Linda is a professional chef, and it shows. The dinner she prepared last night was simply fantastic. Tony plays an excellent supporting role keeping the wine flowing and engaging you with his razor sharp Yorkshire wit.
Of course it helped that I was with some of my favourite people, so the timing was right. A reunion with Juliet & Douglas who have provided such great support in the first half of my walk, and a welcome to my walking buddies Rob & Walking Dave. They are here to take over for the second half. So we were in festive mood, but I have no doubt I would have received the same hospitality if I had been there alone.
[photo: A stunning morning - leaving Keld]
The walk east out of Keld was staggering, with the contrasting movements, colours and textures of the valley set against crisp white snow and clear blue sky. Walking doesn't get much better than this.
[photos: The Swale near Keld]
As the path winds eastward the valley widens and the river matures, and a gentler scene develops. The amble along the riverside is pleasant enough, although I must admit I preferred the drama further up.
[photo: The Swale near Gunnerside]
Gunnerside is more or less at the half-way point of our planned walk today. We had climbed down from the high Swale by Keld to the flatter, lower territory and in doing so had made some good ground. The routine was starting to tell a little though and a cafe stop was most welcome.
[photo: Halfway House - cafe at Gunnerside]
Our plan for the second half was to go a little higher onto the fells to give us a long sweeping descent into Reeth. As we climbed sharply out of Gunnerside the weather cooled (up until now it had been very pleasant, comparatively) and the snow coverage on the ground increased.
I missed our planned path along the side of the hill, the paths being hidden by lying snow, and we climbed much higher than intended. Normal service had been resumed. We were back on the high hill, and things were not running to plan!
We decided to stay high, and devised an alternative route to our destination across Brownsey Moor and through a number of hamlets high above the Swale.
[photo: Back on high ground - Brownsey Moor]
The most striking of these was Blade. A collection of maybe a dozen stone built cottages set around a triangular moorland village green. There was a single track into the hamlet and out the other side. The cottages all had pretty, well kept gardens, enclosed by low walls and accessed by an ornate iron gate. It was like and oasis of order in the midst of the wild moor. Most of the cottages were set back from the tarmac track but had no driveways or access paths. They were accessed only across the grass.
[photo: Unscheduled stop - the lovely hamlet of Blade]
The second half of our walk today was impromptu and considerably more demanding than the route I had planned. We climbed over 2,000 feet yet again; our way was barred by snow drifts, bogs and stile-less walls; and navigation across the snow dappled moorland required careful concentration. However, we were unanimous that the second half was more enjoyable than the first by a distance. Fools!
[photo: Looking back up the valley from near Reeth]
We arrived at The School House B&B, just above the village of Reeth, in the late afternoon. The welcome was again warm, if a little less open-armed than I've experienced to date. The tea and tiffin was a most welcome way of chasing away the cold and fatigue, although we were nervous about dropping chocolate, or mud, or worse on the cream carpets. The owner backed Linda's (Butt House) recommendation that Overton House was the place to eat and helpfully booked us a table. They were both right. Their speciality is fish. The food was outstanding, as was the service and welcome.
I think my fellow walkers may be a little weary tonight. Walking Dave switched from beer to shorts not long after dinner, and was quite happy to cut the evening short so that I could return to base to write my post for today. I think Rob is a little concerned about what he is taking on in doing this for seven days straight. They will both be fine tomorrow.
As for me, my spirits remain high and I'm still waiting for the onset of deep down fatigue. It had better come soon or it will miss out altogether. My calf injury hasn't developed although both tightened during the day, and my knees both stiffened late in the walk. I think a bit of wear and tear is setting in now, but nothing I can't handle. I did have one nasty moment crossing a snow-drift surrounded step over a wall. I planted my right foot in the snow and as I lifted my left to step onto the wall the snow gave way and I sank two feet, causing my left knee to crash against the stone step. I squealed of course, but after a few minutes the pain subsided. It was just a knock.
Tomorrow we continue downstream along the Swale to metropolis, Richmond. It is said to be an easier day, even though the distance is similar to today. We shall see. Having been prevented from joining me by the weather last weekend, Jo is planning to meet us en route and will stay with us overnight in Richmond. It will be great to see her.
No comments:
Post a Comment