Day 2: Something about discretion and valour

Stage: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
Distance: 8 miles (walked)
Ascent: 1,200 feet
Time: 3 hours 40
Weather: Strong winds, heavy snow, blizzard conditions higher up. Very cold.
Conditions: Lying snow and drifts. Footpaths and roads indistinguishable in places.


Well, it's been an interesting day. I guess the main thing I have to report is that the dream is over, at least in its purest form. I am no longer able to cross the country under my own steam.


Oddly enough I feel OK about it. I don't feel my coast to coast is broken. I've had a thoroughly worthwhile walking day, and I'm ready for more.


I thought cumulative fatigue would be the most likely cause of failure. It hadn't occurred to me (despite Juliet's warning) that I would be stopped in my tracks, at the end of March, by a blizzard! I guess it's been coming. There have been national and local forecasts warning of severe weather, and as we walked into Ennerdale Bridge yesterday afternoon local man pointed skywards proclaiming "it's coming" as if foretelling of some impending doom.


This morning we awoke to just a sprinkling of snow, although the wind was howling against the building. By the time I joined the others for breakfast the owner of the B&B we were due to walk to today had already phoned around the accommodation in Ennerdale to locate us and deliver a plea that we should not attempt to cross the mountains to her, adding that we should drive there early before the roads were closed by drifting snow.


Four well-prepared and experienced looking guys sporting the right gear finished breakfast hurriedly and left, declaring they were heading home and wouldn't been risking the hills today. Another couple, here to do the first five days of coast to coast, were planning to use public transport to get to Rosthwaite and were agog that we hadn't yet ruled out walking.


Perhaps anticipating my attitude to the decision at hand Ali, Mum and Sherpa Dave had enlisted the help of the owner of the hotel to advise against doing something foolhardy. I recall that last night the three of them were busy convincing me that I was invincible. Mind you, I was a bit down and very much in need of some encouragement.


We opted for a compromise. I would start to walk, accompanied by Ali initially, and we would meet with Sherpa Dave and Mum in the car at pre-arranged points to make a decision whether or not to go on at each one. We could keep this up for maybe an hour, after which the road would end and I would be committed, and they would need to head to Rosthwaite whilst they still could.


At first the wind was strong and cold, but not a show-stopper. It was snowing but the strength of the wind swept it from the path and collected it in the hedgerows. As we approached the lake the ferocity of the wind increased such that walking became difficult. By the time we reached the lake it was difficult to stand. And this was at the valley floor. At the top of the pass I was aiming for it would be far more severe and almost certainly a white-out. Whilst it was a hard thing to accept, it was an easy decision to make.


Shakespeare: Henry IV part 1.
Falstaff: 'The better part of valour is discretion; in the which better part I have saved my life'.


After attempting a couple of direct routes over passes, each time being turned back by drifts, we drove the long way round via Keswick and into Borrowdale. Here it was as if we'd entered a different climate system. The snow was thick on the ground but the wind had almost gone. It was a winter wonderland.




I was keen to walk. These were cracking conditions and I wanted to minimise the distance lost against my original route. The last thing on my mind was a rest-day. I decided to walk out to Honister Pass, which was on my itinerary for today, turn about and follow my planned route back down into Rothswaite.


Mum had intended this to be her part of walk from the outset and she undertook to walk with me, even though the out and back approach I was taking would double the distance and add 1,000 feet of ascent. It turned out to be a challenging but excellent few hours.




At first the conditions were idyllic (to some of us!). Falling snow and stillness all around. We took our time climbing the hill, taking it in stages. As we neared the top the wind picked up, ultimately to the point where I had to stand and brace myself against the gusts in order to stay on my feet. I held onto Mum to stop her blowing away!


The wind here had scoured the path of snow and deposited it in deep drifts. It was vicious. And this was the point I would have come to after coming off the high fells. As I peered up into the murk it was clear that I had made a very good decision indeed.


As we turned back down the hill we turned into the teeth of the gale, the wind and snow stinging our faces. I'm really impressed by the way Mum handled it. It was quite unsettling at times and I know strong men who would have struggled with it. I was concerned for a time as she lost the feeling in her fingers through the cold, and visions of Rannulf Fiennes taking a hacksaw to his own frostbitten fingers momentarily popped into my head. I thought it best not to mention it (!) and we were able to deal with it quickly.


As we descended the conditions eased and when the calm of the valley was restored Mum expressed her regret that our adventure was over and that the easy valley walking was an anti-climax!








So how do I feel. It's odd really. I feel I should be down, but I feel good. I've had a thoroughly enjoyable day walking in the snow, I'm feeling good in myself and I'm ready for more tomorrow.




The forecast for tomorrow remains bad. I have already decided to go unless conditions make it impossible. The walk is shorter, although the pass at Greenup Edge will be exposed and difficult to navigate if visibility is poor. I'm not familiar with the walk up, but I do know the route down into Grasmere and I have done both the ridge route and valley path in difficult conditions.


Juliet and Douglas arrived in Grasmere this evening. They plan to join me in the morning for the walk. We'll compare notes at breakfast time and make our decision based on road and walking conditions. Communication might be an interesting challenge as they have mobile phone reception but no wireless, and I have the opposite. Simon, Austin and Carol decided to stay put tonight and plan to drive up from the midlands early in the morning. Selfishly I would prefer not to have this extra unscheduled night away from Carol but it is the right call.


Let's see what the morning brings. I hope the conditions will ease but the forecast suggests otherwise. They are all keen to walk with me. After all it's what they came for. However, walking for enjoyment, soaking up the views from the high places, is natural pleasure that most could appreciate. Battling through a white-out in a gale is quite another thing, and is only enjoyed by the unhinged.