Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 1,800 feet
Time: 5 hours 30
Weather: Mixed bag. Heavy snow at start. Periods of brightness. Heavy snow and high wind on high ground. Cold easterly wind throughout.
Conditions: Extensive lying snow at start. Roads and good paths in first half. Open moorland and then lying snow and drifts over high ground.
[photo: Fresh snow on Orton Scar]
We woke up in Orton to significant fresh snowfall, so after the break in the sequence yesterday, breakfast today was again spent pawing over maps looking for options. We agreed to set out on the originally planned high level walk, but would make decisions at selected points to continue, or switch to a lower level alternative.
The planned walk would take us over two fells, Ravenstonedale Moor, and then after dropping sharply to Smardale Bridge, climbing up and over Smardale Fell. Fairly quickly it became apparent that the lying snow was obscuring paths and features, which would make navigation difficult, and it was concealing hazards underneath. We took one of the early escape options and walked around Ravenstonedale Moor rather than over it.
[photo: On course]
Making good ground on clear paths we reached that half-way point Newbiggin-on-Lune in quick time. After wandering through the village in an unsuccessful search for a cafe (a cup of tea was very much in order) we stopped and lunched on our own supplies and plotted the second half of our walk. Conditions had improved, at least in the valley, and we identified that there was only one two and a half mile stretch of moor where there was no clear escape, and on this basis we decided to walk over Smardale Fell.
A few moments after setting out we passed the village cafe, lamented our misfortune, but pressed on without stopping. Immediately the terrain was more interesting than our initial low level route, and we were both energised by it.
[photo: The river at Smardale Bridge]
Our route wound up the side of a hill and then steeply down to Smardale Bridge where we rejoined our originally planned route. At this low lying point conditions were benign, although the fell ahead sat in cloud. We were committed by now so pressed on.
[photo: Smardale Fell from near Smardale Bridge]
The climb onto the fell as more arduous than we'd expected from counting the contours on the map, steeper and with a strengthening easterly wind against us. Nevertheless we marched on at good pace, and into the snow-storm engulfing the fell. From here it was a race against time, before the land became transformed by deep snow and the risk of becoming lost on a featureless moor.
[photo: Ash on Smardale Fell]
The crossing passed without incident and as we completed the long descent into Kirkby Stephen the season changed for a short time. The sun made an appearance, the easterly wind dropped, and I believe I even heard birdsong.
I've been using walking poles for some years now. I find it helps to spread the load on ascents and descents. Ash has always frowned on this as if it were counter to the basic values of the hill-walker, even referring to them as Zimmer Poles. However, having finally accepted his decent into middle age practically has taken over from principle, and anticipating some serious walking this week Ash forked out £20 of his hard earned money on a brand new pair of walking poles.
Having waved goodbye to Dave and Elaine at Scar Side B&B we hung around for 10 snowy minutes in the car park whilst Ash set up his new poles. Then after less than 10 further minutes of walking he saw that one of the baskets had gone missing (the basket is a small circular piece of plastic that fits to the bottom of the pole to stop it sinking into the ground too far - they never really work that well). After politely criticising the quality of the workmanship he set off back up the track in an unsurprisingly fruitless search for the missing basket. After a further 10 minutes we were finally on our way. It was the start of what would turn out to be an eventful day for Ash's odd poles.
Our low level walk took us through numerous fields, protected by dry stone walls and with all manner of stiles, ladders and steps assembled to allow walkers to climb over them. The fields were generally empty or housed flocks of sheep. It was a pleasant enough scene especially as we were treated to some fine views across to the Howgills.
[photo: The Howgills, seen from the north]
I've been chased by cows before, and I know not to mess with them. By contrast I've always seen sheep as rather timid creatures with little about them. I've never come across a militant sheep, until today. As we dropped into another of the many fields we passed through today we anticipated the same uneventful crossing. Ash mentioned that sheep are known to be very protective of their lambs, and at this time of year we shouldn't go too close or we might be butted. Whatever.
As if on cue the sheep seemed to look up as if in unison, still chewing of course. They then started a slow coordinated march towards us. We quickened our step slightly. The exit point over the dry stone wall was not apparent and we veered towards a likely looking low point.
By the time we reached the wall we were pinned against it, surrounded by staring-chewing sheep. They stepped forward within touching distance, again in unison. Brandishing his basket-less pole Ash poked out in an attempt to deter our would-be attackers. I took the opportunity of the distraction to vault (well, climb over quickly) the wall into a snow drift the other side, and Ash quickly followed. "Told you". Good job he had his new poles with him.
Ash's odd poles spent the rest of the first half of the walk strapped to his rucksack. As we neared Smardale Bridge, in anticipation of more challenging walking to come, Ash stopped to assemble his poles. He unscrewed the securing threads on his good pole to extend it to the correct length, but over extended it and the two hales came apart.
After a few seconds of furiously trying to jam the separated parts together Ash again commented on the quality of the poles, questioning at the top of voice their usefulness, and hurled the broken parts into the distance. He turned and continued on his way, swinging his bad pole by his side and grumbling.
[photo: Ash crossing Smardale Fell with his bad pole]
I'm seven days into my coast to coast now. My biggest concern at the outset was cumulative fatigue. This hasn't really happened. I have been tired at the end of each walk but so far I've recovered in time for the next day. I was also a bit footsore for the first time during the walk today, but I don't have any deep down fatigue. I'm managing this well I think, taking my time and keeping my blood sugar level up with frequent snacks and energy drink.
I thought I'd have stacks of time on my hands. This just isn't the case. After my daily routine of eating, packing up my big yellow bag, setting out my rucksack items to dry at the end of each walk, and so on, there isn't much time left in the day. The rest of the time is walking, updating my blog, and sending out texts and calls letting people know I've arrived safely. It's going too quickly.
I'm also loving it. Each day's exertion leaves me tired but with a feeling of elation and satisfaction. I like the road-trip experience moving from one place to the next each day and experiencing the different villages and towns. I am missing Carol badly and I wish she was here with me. FaceTime is an excellent thing, but it's not quite the same.
[photo: Wainwright's fish & chip shop. Closed on Wednesday]
I like Kirkby Stephen. It is a very small town, but it is a town - the first on my route so far. It is also the first place I've stayed where the coast to coast is just a sideshow. The Old Croft House guesthouse is excellent, and there is no reason to expect anything less than a superb breakfast tomorrow.
The owner has been in touch with mountain rescue on my behalf, and provided good advice for my route tomorrow and also the travel prospects for the people joining me tomorrow.
[photos: The Old Croft guesthouse]
I packed two pairs of shorts and am still optimistic I will get to wear a pair outdoors at least once in the next eight days. Until now I have been wearing four layers of clothes against the cutting easterly wind and low temperatures. The forecast has improved however. The next two days should be a little warmer, the wind should drop, and no further snowfall is expected.
[photo: Smardale Fell]
Ash left for Whitby after our walk today. Juliet, Douglas, Walking Dave and Rob will all join me tomorrow at Keld. Keld is an isolated high altitude village that is frequently cut off to traffic. The roads are currently open, and I hope the forecast holds so that they can all get through, and so that Suzi can transport my big yellow bag of course.
As I'll be setting out alone, and having listened to expert advice (and being the new low-risk Pickering) I plan to take a low level route tomorrow. All being well Juliet and Douglas will walk out from Keld to meet me.
[photo: Flipping (?) Wainwright]
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