Monday, 25 March 2013

Day 5: Farewell to The Lakes

From the B&B this morning I could clearly see the path up to Boredale Hause. This is a thoroughfare from Patterdale onto the far eastern fells. There was nobody on it all morning. There is nobody on the fells today. And that includes me.

No regrets. With conditions much as yesterday and snow starting to fall, I woke up feeling the same way I felt last night. It's not worth the risk. Today will be a rest day.

The Lakes phase of my walk has not been what I planned or expected. I thought it would be the hardest working phase, with the steepest and greatest climbs, but I was really looking forward to seeing it and walking it in a different way to my usual, climb up early - do a few summits - and head down. In the end it didn't get to do this, but I got to do something different instead.

When the weather first closed in a few days ago I was frustrated and irritated, particularly when it caused a break in my progress. Then recognising that I couldn't change it I became more philosophical and learned to play with the hand I'd been dealt. I am satisfied I did everything I reasonably could to get through on Friday and Saturday and in the end enjoyed excellent, and very different, winter walks on those days. The successful crossing yesterday was important for me. At least I got to win once.

I've seen aspects of the Lakes I'd never seen before, and contrasts from valley to valley too. The terrain and landscape changes, and each seems to have it's own weather system. And it was good to get just a glimpse of life in each of the villages.

In the end I am pleased with this phase. I put at least as much into it as I would if it had been straightforward, and I feel I know the mountains better now after my multi-day wrestle with them. I also feel pretty good in myself. I am feeling the effects of yesterday at the moment, but not much in the way of deep down fatigue, and my legs and feet are fine with no aches or pains worth mentioning.

Tomorrow I begin a new phase, running through to half way at the end of day 8. What I want to do now is put some miles on the clock. I'll seek the quick but attractive routes rather than the risky. I'll explore a part of the country I know little about, and I'll do it in the company of good friends.

This has been one of the great bonuses for me over the first five days: The appreciation and enjoyment of my family and friends (given that I'm the grumpy, solitary type).

Those first few days with Sherpa Dave, Mum and Ali were very special, and the experience was heightened because we had a common mission rather than just spending time. The way they helped me make difficult decisions as if they were for themselves, whilst trying to put themselves in my shoes, just illustrated how much they care for me. If I didn't know already.

Juliet and Douglas picked up the baton next. I had to talk them out of my Greenup Edge attempt they were so keen to join in (so I am capable of good decisions). I could have easily felt down that evening, having failed to get through to Grasmere; Sherpa Dave, Mum and Ali having left for home; and the disappointment of Carol not coming up, but they made sure I was OK. As for yesterday (read the Day 4 post), they demonstrated that they have the hearts of lions (as well as gold).

Ash arrives tonight for a two day stint over the Pennines. It will be good to spend some decent time together. Our lives have taken us in different directions lately and we haven't done this enough. Juliet and Douglas will be back for more on Day 8. I have promised them a more straightforward day, and it will be nice celebrating half way with them. Then the cavalry arrives. Dave & Rob ride into town (in my car!). Fresh legs and fresh spirits for the second half.

One of the things I've really come to appreciate at the end of a long cold day in the hills is somewhere warm and comfortable to stay, good food, and a friendly welcome. I've been very lucky in this respect. All of the places I've stayed have been excellent and I'd recommend them all.

The Shepherds Arms in Ennerdale Bridge is one of a surprisingly small number of places to stay there. The place is comfortable enough. Keith, the owner, was extremely helpful, in particularly in contributing his local knowledge to our Day 2 decision making. Indeed, the B&Bs on my schedule formed a network to check my progress, share weather reports, road conditions and so on.

Yew Crags in Rosthwaite is a lovely B&B. It is a fine house just outside the village with large comfortable rooms. The whole family shares in serving breakfast. A really nice feeling place.

Town Head Farm is a couple of miles to the north of Grasmere, at the foot of Helm Crag, although this splendid location isn't ideal for those wanting to see the bright lights of the village. It's like being at home. It's very small with a cosy sitting room. Jackie is just great. Straight talking and you get the feeling she really cares.

Last night I stayed at Crookabeck, down a track from Patterdale. I didn't particularly enjoy the extra mile or so at the end of my walk yesterday, but it was worth it. The accommodation is an annex to Adam and Charlene's family home, and you get a bedroom, a bathroom and a living room / kitchen. Warm, cosy and stylish all at the same time, and they have Sky Sports! Adam also helped transport my big yellow bag to and from the main road, the track to Crookabeck being impassable for normal cars.

Tonight we're at the Crown & Mitre at Bampton Grange. This is the late substitution I had to do when the Mardale Inn fell through. So far so good.





Finally, I enjoyed my rest day by taking a walk!

1 comment:

  1. Well done Ian, a real effort so far! Don't forget we want you to be safe and warm at the end of daylight every day so keep it in stages - the wind seems to let us through when it's ready! I hope the frost and ice goes though, it's not as easy as it looks! Proud to be part of what you're doing.




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