Distance: 14 miles
Ascent: 1,750 feet
Time: 6 hours 30
Weather: Bright with some sun. Cool but little wind.
Conditions: Roads, tracks (some muddy), farm fields. No lying snow after Richmond.
[photo: The three amigos, Richmond]
After the excellent walk on Saturday we had an equally enjoyable evening in Richmond, the metropolis. It was unusual being in a big town - it allows quite a different sort of evening. It was lovely catching up with Jo after not seeing her for some years, although Rob and Walking Dave now know more about me than they did before.
[photo: Farewell to Jo, Richmond]
Spirits were high this morning as we waved goodbye to Jo and set out on the march to Danby Wiske. All of the sources marked this down as a long flat section lacking in the interest of the previous high ground stages.
[photo: The Swale in Richmond]
Perhaps it's best left to Wainwright to describe this stage:
"To walkers whose liking is for high places and rough terrain this will seem the dullest part of the whole walk; those who believe the earth is flat will be mightily encouraged on this section."
"Few people are seen; in fact one feels lonelier here than one does on the mountains. There is nothing to see, nothing worthy of illustration, nothing of interest to anyone but farmers."
"Tedium grows apace and one plods onwards mechanically, head down, thinking nostalgically of places left behind."
"At only 110 feet above sea level, Danby Wiske is the lowest point on the journey between the coastal extremities; to me it was a veritable Slough of Despond."
[photo: Easby Priory]
I have to side with Wainwright. For me this was the first overall uninspiring stage. It is not all bad however, and I think it is the cumulative effect of so much flatness and the stark comparison to the splendour before that makes it so.
The path along the river out of Richmond is charming. There is the odd short climb but overall the walking is easy. We walked contentedly as far as Easby Abbey and into the fields beyond.
[photo: The moors, nearly two days march from Brompton on Swale]
The problems really started at Brompton on Swale. A forced busy road section of several miles runs ultimately along the main road through the village, a row of houses each side punctuated by a Mace store and an ordinarily looking pub. After this it doesn't get much better as the road forks and runs under the A1. Eventually, by keeping straight on a track provides access into open countryside again.
[photo: Crossing the A1. Brompton on Swale]
A little further on, and in a striking contrast, Bolton on Swale is a charming little village. After stopping here for our first serious snack stop of the day we walked through the village and back out into the sameness of the open countryside. By now it was starting to grind a bit.
[photos: The pretty village of Bolton-on-Swale]
[photo: Footbridge near Bolton on Swale]
To our rescue came Kiplin Hall, half way along one of the several on-road stretches of the walk. The attraction came in the form of a "tea room open" sign at the gate. The timing was just right, and the tea room was very good (if a bit twee) although we were somewhat out of place amongst the Easter Sunday day trippers in our muddy boots, dirty clothes and unwieldy rucksacks that were really too big for such a small space. The lunch was excellent.
[photo: Kipling Hall]
The rest of the journey to Danby Wiske was attritional, with little to spark the imagination, and not much in the way of challenge other than keeping on plodding forwards through muddy fields. We were reminded of Wainwright's comments.
[photo: Flat]
[photo: Flatter]
[photo: Flatter still. At least the moors are getting nearer]
I suffered a bit today. There was no real problem with energy levels, but the aches and pains in my feet and legs nagged me all day long. There is sure to be some wear and tear now, although I wonder if my biggest problem is in my head. I set out expecting a difficult day, and got it. For the first time I hadn't really thought much about the walk and wasn't really prepared for it. I must be careful not to make that mistake again. Oh, and post-walk I applied pretty much all of the lotions and potions I have with me (which is quite a lot). Surely one of them must work!
I think all three of us felt the same about the walk today, and we each struggled to some extent.
[photo: Tired but successful]
So this is the end of Walking Dave's coast to coast. He's been great company as always and we've had a ball. Good hard walking by day and plenty of food and drink and laughter. I'll miss him, but I'm sure it won't be long before we're walking together again.
Anyway, our stop-over for the night The White Swan at Danby Wiske is in keeping with the places before, so we're not quite done yet.
[photo: White Swan, Danby Wiske. The end of the line for Walking Dave]
Thoughts now turn to tomorrow. The terrain will be much the same as today although the distance is considerably shorter. On paper it should be an easy day. The map and guidebooks show little to contradict this, although from the evidence of today I wonder if mud might be our challenge.
Our current plan is to go fast and light. To try to get to Osmotherley early and spend the remainder of the day with our feet up ahead of the long day on Tuesday.
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