Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 2,300 feet
Time: 6 hours 15
Weather: Bright sun at times. Snow squalls. Cold easterly wind - easing. Heavy snowfall in last hour.
Conditions: Some minor snow drifts early and late in walk. Otherwise mainly grassy moorland, with snow patches. More ascent than expected.
Our stay at the Crown & Mitre was excellent, in keeping with the standard of accommodation so far, the highlight being possibly the best beef pie in England, served at dinner last night.
The landlady took no time at all to work Ash out. As we waited for him to come down from his room to settle his share of the bill she asked if he was still doing his hair! She also shared a radio news report that on Monday the Mountain Rescue Service had been called out three times to the aid of walkers in the mountains between Patterdale and Bampton.
[photo: Last sight of the Lakes]
The path out of Bampton was mostly across fields, with snow-drift-hidden stiles crossing dry stone walls. The section was uneventful, if a little hillier than expected. By the time we reached Shap we were both feeling the effects.
[photo: Crossing the M6]
Suitably replenished at the very good coffee shop there we crossed first the west coast railway line and then the M6. A landmark moment signalling the one-third point of coast to coast and a switch of phase.
[photo: Near Oddendale Stone Circle]
Out of sight of the motorway the landscape settled into a quite different feel to that of the Lakes. This was rolling moorland rather than sharp peaks. Scattered lying snow rather than wall-to-wall drifts.
[photo: The velvet turf]
As we progressed east the snow became more scattered to reveal smooth close-cut grass (not because it's been mown!). Wainwright called this the velvet turf, and it was much in evidence through the second half of the walk today. It made for good comfortable walking, although the repeated sharp descents down to streams or similar and subsequent re-ascents ensured the difficulty level remained respectable.
[photo: Knitted hat and matching Foster Grants]
The chilling east wind was ever present, and was sometimes accompanied by squalling snow. From time to time however we were treated to bright sunshine, and where this coincided with a dip in the wind the conditions were almost pleasant. Maybe spring is not so far away, and I will get to wear the shorts I packed sometime before Robin Hoods Bay?
[photo: Limestone pavement]
The Bampton to Orton stage is also punctuated by what can best be described as "items of interest". Some of these are named. Oddendale Stone Circle is to be honest a bit of an "is that it?" sight, as is Robin Hoods Grave. In the case of the latter we couldn't see a connection either to the legendary do-gooder or to a tomb. There are remains of roman roads, limestone pavements, medium sized boulders and large boulders. Whilst none of these is especially spectacular they do add interest to the moorland march.
All in all it was an excellent walk, rather like the North York Moors but with a charm of it's own, and that Velvet Turf. It is a part of the country that deserves more visitors, or maybe that would take away some of the charm.
[photos: Calm before the storm - see the clouds gathering behind the sunlit scene]
As we moved into the final miles of the walk the repeating pattern of wind blown snow flurries and bright sunlit moments was interrupted by a heavy and extended snow-storm. This persisted until we reached our destination.
[photo: Approaching Scar Side]
Scar Side Farm B&B is wonderfully situated below Orton Scar, and right on the coast to coast path. I'd been in touch with the owners, Dave & Elaine, several times in the run-up and my expectations were high. I'm pleased to report that they didn't disappoint. The accommodation is excellent. We each have a comfortable bedroom, and there is a separate living room shared by all guests, which means the two of us. As I write Ash is warming by the log burner watching England play Montenegro.
The welcome was warm, and we arrived to tea and biscuits and were even offered an evening meal. We decided instead to try the local pub, about a mile away, and Dave kindly provided a taxi service there and back for the price of a couple of pints.
[photo: Scar Side Farm B&B]
Consistent with what had gone before dinner at the George was excellent, as was the beer. A stream of locals came in and out and engaged us in lively conversation. Most expressed surprised at why we're here. I think we may be the first coast to coasters of the season. Indeed, like the places I've stayed previously Dave & Elaine reported that all their other coast to coasters this fortnight have cancelled, pulling out of their walk altogether.
Indeed, we saw no fresh footprints in the snow today, and not another soul on the moors. Could it be that I'm the only coast to coaster still going? Surely not?
[photo: After the storm - Orton Scar]
So, a good walk today. Thanks to Ash for the excellent company - like old times. Lets hope his dodgy knees hold up for another go tomorrow.
It is also worth noting that we completed the stage as planned, with no unforeseen dramas!
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