Distance: 11 miles
Ascent: 2,100 feet
Time: 5 hours
Weather: Bright sunshine mostly. Occasional snow squall. Cold easterly wind. Gentle in valleys, strong on hills. Very cold on hills. Mild(er) in valley.
Conditions: Roads and good paths. Some snow on the ground.
[photo: Signpost with miles and furlongs, Kirkby Stephen]
There isn't a low level walking route from Kirkby Stephen to Keld. They're all high. It's just that some are higher than others. My "low level" route reached 1,740 feet above sea level. I believe the highest point on the highest route tops out at 2,100 feet.
This was a wonderful walk. From the calm oasis of Kirkby Stephen, through the wild bleak winter crispness of the high hills, and down into lovely Swaledale.
[photo: The road from Nateby]
After Nateby, tracking the B-road, the path climbs steadily for four miles. The tranquility of the valley is quickly forgotten as the now familiar cutting easterly wind returns as soon as a little height is gained. And true to form the intensity of the wind increases with altitude. Across the highest sections this was quite possibly my coldest walk yet.
[photo: Mallerstang Edge]
Today was different though. Other than the odd snow flurry the day was characterised by wall to wall sunshine. Today was a day for sunglasses, not as a fashion accessory but as protection from the glare.
[photos: Green Hill (?)]
The high ground, which occupied more than half of the walk, was a winter wonderland. Cold, bleak, clean, crisp and utterly spectacular.
[photo: A stunning winter day]
This is the English outdoors at it's very best. I had a fantastic day.
[photo: Crossing the border]
This was also a landmark day. I crossed into my second county of two, from Cumbria to Yorkshire. My arrival at Keld also marked the half-way point in terms of mileage, but rather more than that in ascent (and difficulty). I have also walked eight days out of a planned fifteen. So it's all down hill from here then(?).
[photo: Closest I'll get to Nine Standards]
As I passed into Yorkshire I had my best view of Nine Standards Rigg. This is the impassible high level route I was advised against today. From my vantage point it looked reachable, but I could see the snow-traps between here and there made it a no-go area.
[photos: Into Swaledale, approaching Keld]
Whilst the climb to the highest point was long and severe, the descent into Yorkshire on the other side was meandering and gradual. It is also less of a descent, Keld being much higher than Kirkby Stephen. It was during this descent that I first came across the River Swale, tiny and frozen at first but gradually building into full flow, and ultimately dominating the scene.
The final three miles following the river into Keld were lovely. The change from the bleak high ground is marked. The contrast of flowing river, rocks, ice and flashes of green moorland were spellbinding. For once I didn't tire in the closing stages of a walk and in fact wished it would go on.
The only slight concern at the end of this excellent day is a nagging pain in my left calf. It first came on around half-way and gradually tightened to the point I had to "nurse" it home. Hopefully some lotions and potions and a night's rest will allow it to recover.
[photo: Keld]
The welcome from Linda and Tony at Butt House was exceptionally warm. Once again I've found a winner. Linda is a chef, so dinner this evening should be excellent. Juliet and Douglas arrived not long after me, and Dave and Rob are due any time now.
It should be a special evening. Let's hope I don't nod off after dinner!
No comments:
Post a Comment