Distance: 7 miles (walked)
Ascent: 1,600 feet
Time: 4 hours 10
Weather: A little snowfall, but more blown up in gusts. Wind cold but slightly eased from yesterday.
Conditions: Trecherous. Deep snow drifts and hidden hazards underfoot.
This should've been one of the most pleasant days of the walk, enjoyed in the company of friends. Juliet and Douglas had made it to their base in Grasmere Friday evening, but after postponing their journey until Saturday morning Simon, Austin and Carol decided not to risk the journey.
After hugs and goodbyes with Sherpa Dave, Ali and Mum I waved them off from our B&B. I've had a cracking weekend with them, and if anything the unexpected challenges we've had cemented us as a group. I could not have wished for a better send-off.
Based on another poor weather forecast and the visibly difficult local conditions I urged Juliet and Douglas not to join me today, and they did some lower level walking around their Grasmere base. We agreed to meet up later in the day. I set out solo from Rosthwaite with a clear safety plan to pull out if I felt it was becoming dangerous. I was sure that if I could get up to Greenup Edge I would be able to make it because my knowledge of the descent into Grasmere is good, including in poor visibility.
The first part of the walk, south out of Rosthwaite alongside the beck, was promising. There was still a light snowfall, but conditions were benign and the tops of some of the surrounding fells could be clearly seen. As I turned east towards the foot of Eagle Crag though the wind whipped up and some drifting was in evidence, even though this was still at the valley floor.
I was comforted that the path had been trodden by others this morning, and the foot prints plotted a route through the increasingly deep drifts. Gradually the prints drifted away until eventually, as the hill steepened, I was kept company by a single set. I continued this way for some time, stepping in my predecessors footmarks to avoid sinking in the deeper snow.
Ultimately I lost my friend, as the footprints veered right and curved back down the hill. Now I was alone. The knowledge that I was the first to tread this way today weighed heavily. I felt more exposed and conscious of the danger of my situation.
The practicalities of climbing upwards also become more difficult, exponentially. Now I had to plot my own route, keeping a steady uphill direction, navigating through the drifts, and avoiding dangerous rocks and hollows. It was painstaking work as I used my poles to survey the snow depths ahead of my steps. I made frequent mistakes, and slipped waist deep into drifts a couple of times. Later I frightened myself by missing the side of a concealed rock, scraping my shin down it. This could easily have been a sprain or worse.
Several times I stopped and considered my situation, each time coming closer to turning back. Near Lining Crag, not so far from the top of the pass, I approached a deep drift across a gully. I think I knew the game was up before I reached it. As I came up close the lip of the drift came above my shoulders. I couldn't see a feasible route round, and after taking a moment to process the reality of defeat I turned and headed downhill.
OK, so I'm no explorer. However, it's worth noting that I have a pretty fair chance of making it to my 50th birthday. Something Scott and Mallory didn't achieve!
Soon after turning back I bumped into a solo walker following my footprints in the opposite direction. We discussed his prospects for a few minutes. I think he considered retreating with me, and for my part I wondered if I might give it another try. Walking together would be safer, and we could share be route finding. In the end we both decided to stick with our current plan. We shook hands, wished each other good luck, and moved off in our different directions.
As I approached the end of my retreat I could see a figure coming down the mountain. I wasn't sure at the time but it turned out to be the walker who passed me. He pulled over at the bus-stop I was waiting at for my ride over the Keswick and offered me a lift all the way to Grasmere. He'd continued until my footprints finished and then for a further few hundred metres, but became unnerved by the exposure of his situation and exhausted by the difficulty of cutting his own path through the snow.
I was a little down as I made my decision to turn back today, wondering if I could have pushed on further. It is a selfish thought but the fact the other walker also turned around after extending my farthest point by only a little helped me be satisfied that I has pushed far enough. Given the time of day I suspect nobody went over that pass today.
Since arriving at my B&B this evening I've been contacted by several concerned friends and also seen the weather related carnage across the country. Maybe it's something just to be giving it a go in these conditions. I hear this is the coldest March in 50 years. How symmetrical!
The weather looks like it will further deplete my walking party. Jo hasn't been able to make it, and Ash is flagging a concern for his arrival on Monday. We'll confirm plans tomorrow. Juliet and Douglas plan to return for the Kirkby Stephen to Keld leg and this will be a real bonus. They are always great company and we've had a really enjoyable dinner together this evening.
As for my journey east the next two days are key. In this part of the world there is no feasible low level walking route from west to east and it is necessary to cross the mountain passes. My plan is to do what it takes to get myself and my big yellow bag across to Patterdale tomorrow and then Bampton on Monday. My first choice will be to walk but if this becomes dangerous or infeasible I will use alternative means. Suzi starts her work tomorrow, and hopefully the roads will be sufficiently open to allow her through.
After Bampton the situation should ease. The terrain is a little more forgiving and there are more escape options. This means if the fells are too difficult I should still be able to continue on foot, even if it means using the roads.
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