Day 11: The Slough of Despond

Stage: Richmond to Danby Wiske
Distance: 14 miles
Ascent: 1,750 feet
Time: 6 hours 30
Weather: Bright with some sun. Cool but little wind.
Conditions: Roads, tracks (some muddy), farm fields. No lying snow after Richmond.



[photo: The three amigos, Richmond]

After the excellent walk on Saturday we had an equally enjoyable evening in Richmond, the metropolis. It was unusual being in a big town - it allows quite a different sort of evening. It was lovely catching up with Jo after not seeing her for some years, although Rob and Walking Dave now know more about me than they did before.




[photo: Farewell to Jo, Richmond]

Spirits were high this morning as we waved goodbye to Jo and set out on the march to Danby Wiske. All of the sources marked this down as a long flat section lacking in the interest of the previous high ground stages.



[photo: The Swale in Richmond]

Perhaps it's best left to Wainwright to describe this stage:

"To walkers whose liking is for high places and rough terrain this will seem the dullest part of the whole walk; those who believe the earth is flat will be mightily encouraged on this section."

"Few people are seen; in fact one feels lonelier here than one does on the mountains. There is nothing to see, nothing worthy of illustration, nothing of interest to anyone but farmers."

"Tedium grows apace and one plods onwards mechanically, head down, thinking nostalgically of places left behind."

"At only 110 feet above sea level, Danby Wiske is the lowest point on the journey between the coastal extremities; to me it was a veritable Slough of Despond."



[photo: Easby Priory]

I have to side with Wainwright. For me this was the first overall uninspiring stage. It is not all bad however, and I think it is the cumulative effect of so much flatness and the stark comparison to the splendour before that makes it so.

The path along the river out of Richmond is charming. There is the odd short climb but overall the walking is easy. We walked contentedly as far as Easby Abbey and into the fields beyond.



[photo: The moors, nearly two days march from Brompton on Swale]

The problems really started at Brompton on Swale. A forced busy road section of several miles runs ultimately along the main road through the village, a row of houses each side punctuated by a Mace store and an ordinarily looking pub. After this it doesn't get much better as the road forks and runs under the A1. Eventually, by keeping straight on a track provides access into open countryside again.



[photo: Crossing the A1. Brompton on Swale]

A little further on, and in a striking contrast, Bolton on Swale is a charming little village. After stopping here for our first serious snack stop of the day we walked through the village and back out into the sameness of the open countryside. By now it was starting to grind a bit.






[photos: The pretty village of Bolton-on-Swale]



[photo: Footbridge near Bolton on Swale]

To our rescue came Kiplin Hall, half way along one of the several on-road stretches of the walk. The attraction came in the form of a "tea room open" sign at the gate. The timing was just right, and the tea room was very good (if a bit twee) although we were somewhat out of place amongst the Easter Sunday day trippers in our muddy boots, dirty clothes and unwieldy rucksacks that were really too big for such a small space. The lunch was excellent.




[photo: Kipling Hall]

The rest of the journey to Danby Wiske was attritional, with little to spark the imagination, and not much in the way of challenge other than keeping on plodding forwards through muddy fields. We were reminded of Wainwright's comments.



[photo: Flat]



[photo: Flatter]



[photo: Flatter still. At least the moors are getting nearer]

I suffered a bit today. There was no real problem with energy levels, but the aches and pains in my feet and legs nagged me all day long. There is sure to be some wear and tear now, although I wonder if my biggest problem is in my head. I set out expecting a difficult day, and got it. For the first time I hadn't really thought much about the walk and wasn't really prepared for it. I must be careful not to make that mistake again. Oh, and post-walk I applied pretty much all of the lotions and potions I have with me (which is quite a lot). Surely one of them must work!

I think all three of us felt the same about the walk today, and we each struggled to some extent.



[photo: Tired but successful]

So this is the end of Walking Dave's coast to coast. He's been great company as always and we've had a ball. Good hard walking by day and plenty of food and drink and laughter. I'll miss him, but I'm sure it won't be long before we're walking together again.

Anyway, our stop-over for the night The White Swan at Danby Wiske is in keeping with the places before, so we're not quite done yet.



[photo: White Swan, Danby Wiske. The end of the line for Walking Dave]

Thoughts now turn to tomorrow. The terrain will be much the same as today although the distance is considerably shorter. On paper it should be an easy day. The map and guidebooks show little to contradict this, although from the evidence of today I wonder if mud might be our challenge.

Our current plan is to go fast and light. To try to get to Osmotherley early and spend the remainder of the day with our feet up ahead of the long day on Tuesday.

Day 10: Top Gun and The Cow

Stage: Reeth to Richmond
Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 1,950 feet
Time: 6 hours 30
Weather: Bright sunshine with occasional cloud. Warmer and less windy.
Conditions: Good paths, forest tracks, and watery / muddy sections. Much reduced lying snow.




[photo: School House, Reeth]

The walk today was excellent, and the weather was much improved. The cold easterly rested for much of the day allowing the warmth of the sun to come through.








[photos: The Green, Reeth]

Yesterday beat me up a little bit. In fact I think it must have been a hard day because both Rob and Walking Dave were pretty subdued last evening. Then, my knees and calves were stiff and aching, but other than being tired I felt OK in myself.

By this morning that had switched around. Thanks to a good rest and Carol's herbal potions my legs were feeling much better. Worryingly though I felt like I was running on empty. This is the first time I have felt real fatigue since I started.




[photo: Apedale (?) from Reeth]

For the half an hour or so before getting out of bed I was concerned about whether I could get through the next six days and it took me a while to sort out my attitude. I had to coach myself back into a one-step-at-a-time way of thinking. Don't think about getting to the end, just the next step you have to take.

The good news is, after my usual morning routine of Berocca ("you but on a good day") and cooked breakfast I felt much better. I went on to power through the day with no trouble. It just goes to disprove the straight-line logic that if you're feeling bad now, doing more of the same is just going to make you feel worse. The human body (and mind) has a great way of repairing itself.




[photo: Marrick Priory]

Our route took us down past The Green in Reeth and then along a straightforward low level route past Marrick Priory before climbing up to Marrick itself. This was longest ascent in a day that was supposed to have limited climbing, although we once again registered around the 2,000 feet mark.




[photo: Climb towards Marrick]

A very pleasant route then took us through fields and across moorland high above the widening valley below. It was during this sunlit trek that Rob (aka Top Gun) had his encounter with a long-horned cow. The following pictures tell the story.





[photo: Top Gun]




[photo: The Cow]




[photo: Walking Dave, "go on Rob, slap the cow"]




[photo: Shall I?]




[photo: Into the arena]








[photos: Top Gun and The Cow]




[photo: Time to leave]




[photo: The Swale near Marske]

After wandering through the very pleasant Marrick Park a short road section led us into Marske. We had covered more than half the planned route for the day so had earned our cafe lunch.

With perfect timing (or planning?) Jo arrived by taxi to meet us on our walk into Marske. It was great to see her - it's been a very long time. She had wanted to join me in the Lakes but the terrible weather last weekend had made that impossible. She was determined to do part of the walk with me and I'm really made up it was today.




[photo: Jo & Ian at the"slow cafe", Marske]




[photo: The Swale near Marske]

After Marske the track ran across fields soaked by melting now, over Paddy's Bridge and ultimately up to Applegarth Scar. Tracking the cliffs we passed across open fields and then through Whitcliffe Wood, before emerging above Richmond.




[photo: Swaledale west of Richmond]

The views across to the town were tremendous. It's great to be able to see your objective in this way. We marched down the hill into Richmond like a conquering army from the west. It was a fine feeling.








[photos: Richmond]

I had a cracking day. The route was varied and interesting throughout, with some challenging sections. The weather was by a distance the best of my coast to coast yet. And, I was able to share it with good friends.




[photo: One man and his dog]

Day 9: If Carlsberg made B&Bs

Stage: Keld to Reeth
Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 2,000 feet
Time: 6 hours 20
Weather: Bright and sunny with only the odd snow squall. Cool rather than cold. Easterly breeze.
Conditions: Mixed paths initially, with snow and ice cover in places. Later open moorland and some snow drifts.



[photo: Team photo at Butt House]

I'm very reluctant to rank the places I've stayed. It doesn't seem right really, and the important thing is that they've all been excellent, beyond my expectations, and they've all served my needs perfectly at the time I needed them. There is nothing nicer after a long, hard, cold, wet day on the hills than coming down to a warm and comfortable lodging, and to be welcomed by a friendly face.

I am however going to break this rule, because one place really stands apart and is worthy of special mention. It may be bettered before the end of my coast to coast, but that is extremely unlikely, and if it is I will probably never leave.

Butt House is possibly the best B&B in England. It is situated at the top of the beautiful isolated village of Keld. The welcome by owners Tony and Linda is the warmest you'll come across. They are genuinely interested in you and your story, but not overbearing, and seem to find the right balance between being there all the time when you need them and leaving you to do your own thing.

The place is warm, clean and comfortable. The rooms are equipped as you would expect and there is a dining room and living room downstairs shared by the guests. Last night it was just the Pickering party. We had the place to ourselves.

It really is the hospitality though that makes the place. Linda is a professional chef, and it shows. The dinner she prepared last night was simply fantastic. Tony plays an excellent supporting role keeping the wine flowing and engaging you with his razor sharp Yorkshire wit.

Of course it helped that I was with some of my favourite people, so the timing was right. A reunion with Juliet & Douglas who have provided such great support in the first half of my walk, and a welcome to my walking buddies Rob & Walking Dave. They are here to take over for the second half. So we were in festive mood, but I have no doubt I would have received the same hospitality if I had been there alone.



[photo: A stunning morning - leaving Keld]

The walk east out of Keld was staggering, with the contrasting movements, colours and textures of the valley set against crisp white snow and clear blue sky. Walking doesn't get much better than this.






[photos: The Swale near Keld]

As the path winds eastward the valley widens and the river matures, and a gentler scene develops. The amble along the riverside is pleasant enough, although I must admit I preferred the drama further up.



[photo: The Swale near Gunnerside]

Gunnerside is more or less at the half-way point of our planned walk today. We had climbed down from the high Swale by Keld to the flatter, lower territory and in doing so had made some good ground. The routine was starting to tell a little though and a cafe stop was most welcome.



[photo: Halfway House - cafe at Gunnerside]

Our plan for the second half was to go a little higher onto the fells to give us a long sweeping descent into Reeth. As we climbed sharply out of Gunnerside the weather cooled (up until now it had been very pleasant, comparatively) and the snow coverage on the ground increased.

I missed our planned path along the side of the hill, the paths being hidden by lying snow, and we climbed much higher than intended. Normal service had been resumed. We were back on the high hill, and things were not running to plan!

We decided to stay high, and devised an alternative route to our destination across Brownsey Moor and through a number of hamlets high above the Swale.



[photo: Back on high ground - Brownsey Moor]

The most striking of these was Blade. A collection of maybe a dozen stone built cottages set around a triangular moorland village green. There was a single track into the hamlet and out the other side. The cottages all had pretty, well kept gardens, enclosed by low walls and accessed by an ornate iron gate. It was like and oasis of order in the midst of the wild moor. Most of the cottages were set back from the tarmac track but had no driveways or access paths. They were accessed only across the grass.



[photo: Unscheduled stop - the lovely hamlet of Blade]

The second half of our walk today was impromptu and considerably more demanding than the route I had planned. We climbed over 2,000 feet yet again; our way was barred by snow drifts, bogs and stile-less walls; and navigation across the snow dappled moorland required careful concentration. However, we were unanimous that the second half was more enjoyable than the first by a distance. Fools!



[photo: Looking back up the valley from near Reeth]

We arrived at The School House B&B, just above the village of Reeth, in the late afternoon. The welcome was again warm, if a little less open-armed than I've experienced to date. The tea and tiffin was a most welcome way of chasing away the cold and fatigue, although we were nervous about dropping chocolate, or mud, or worse on the cream carpets. The owner backed Linda's (Butt House) recommendation that Overton House was the place to eat and helpfully booked us a table. They were both right. Their speciality is fish. The food was outstanding, as was the service and welcome.

I think my fellow walkers may be a little weary tonight. Walking Dave switched from beer to shorts not long after dinner, and was quite happy to cut the evening short so that I could return to base to write my post for today. I think Rob is a little concerned about what he is taking on in doing this for seven days straight. They will both be fine tomorrow.

As for me, my spirits remain high and I'm still waiting for the onset of deep down fatigue. It had better come soon or it will miss out altogether. My calf injury hasn't developed although both tightened during the day, and my knees both stiffened late in the walk. I think a bit of wear and tear is setting in now, but nothing I can't handle. I did have one nasty moment crossing a snow-drift surrounded step over a wall. I planted my right foot in the snow and as I lifted my left to step onto the wall the snow gave way and I sank two feet, causing my left knee to crash against the stone step. I squealed of course, but after a few minutes the pain subsided. It was just a knock.

Tomorrow we continue downstream along the Swale to metropolis, Richmond. It is said to be an easier day, even though the distance is similar to today. We shall see. Having been prevented from joining me by the weather last weekend, Jo is planning to meet us en route and will stay with us overnight in Richmond. It will be great to see her.

Day 8: Winter Wonderland

Stage: Kirkby Stephen to Keld
Distance: 11 miles
Ascent: 2,100 feet
Time: 5 hours
Weather: Bright sunshine mostly. Occasional snow squall. Cold easterly wind. Gentle in valleys, strong on hills. Very cold on hills. Mild(er) in valley.
Conditions: Roads and good paths. Some snow on the ground.



[photo: Signpost with miles and furlongs, Kirkby Stephen]

There isn't a low level walking route from Kirkby Stephen to Keld. They're all high. It's just that some are higher than others. My "low level" route reached 1,740 feet above sea level. I believe the highest point on the highest route tops out at 2,100 feet.

This was a wonderful walk. From the calm oasis of Kirkby Stephen, through the wild bleak winter crispness of the high hills, and down into lovely Swaledale.



[photo: The road from Nateby]

After Nateby, tracking the B-road, the path climbs steadily for four miles. The tranquility of the valley is quickly forgotten as the now familiar cutting easterly wind returns as soon as a little height is gained. And true to form the intensity of the wind increases with altitude. Across the highest sections this was quite possibly my coldest walk yet.




[photo: Mallerstang Edge]

Today was different though. Other than the odd snow flurry the day was characterised by wall to wall sunshine. Today was a day for sunglasses, not as a fashion accessory but as protection from the glare.







[photos: Green Hill (?)]

The high ground, which occupied more than half of the walk, was a winter wonderland. Cold, bleak, clean, crisp and utterly spectacular.



[photo: A stunning winter day]

This is the English outdoors at it's very best. I had a fantastic day.




[photo: Crossing the border]

This was also a landmark day. I crossed into my second county of two, from Cumbria to Yorkshire. My arrival at Keld also marked the half-way point in terms of mileage, but rather more than that in ascent (and difficulty). I have also walked eight days out of a planned fifteen. So it's all down hill from here then(?).



[photo: Closest I'll get to Nine Standards]

As I passed into Yorkshire I had my best view of Nine Standards Rigg. This is the impassible high level route I was advised against today. From my vantage point it looked reachable, but I could see the snow-traps between here and there made it a no-go area.









[photos: Into Swaledale, approaching Keld]

Whilst the climb to the highest point was long and severe, the descent into Yorkshire on the other side was meandering and gradual. It is also less of a descent, Keld being much higher than Kirkby Stephen. It was during this descent that I first came across the River Swale, tiny and frozen at first but gradually building into full flow, and ultimately dominating the scene.

The final three miles following the river into Keld were lovely. The change from the bleak high ground is marked. The contrast of flowing river, rocks, ice and flashes of green moorland were spellbinding. For once I didn't tire in the closing stages of a walk and in fact wished it would go on.

The only slight concern at the end of this excellent day is a nagging pain in my left calf. It first came on around half-way and gradually tightened to the point I had to "nurse" it home. Hopefully some lotions and potions and a night's rest will allow it to recover.



[photo: Keld]

The welcome from Linda and Tony at Butt House was exceptionally warm. Once again I've found a winner. Linda is a chef, so dinner this evening should be excellent. Juliet and Douglas arrived not long after me, and Dave and Rob are due any time now.

It should be a special evening. Let's hope I don't nod off after dinner!