Distance: 20 miles
Ascent: 3,600 feet
Time: 8 hours 15
Weather: Bright. Mainly cloudy but some sun. Snow flurries and easterly wind on high ground.
Conditions: Lanes, tracks, open moorland, disused railway line. Lying snow on high ground.
[photos: The Golden Lion, Osmotherley]
The Golden Lion at Osmotherley is what you would call a gastro-pub. It doesn't look much from the outside but inside it is very nice indeed. A classy establishment, a comfortable room, lovely surroundings, and dinner to match.
Our plan was to start early on Blakey Ridge day to make sure we could fit in the miles in time to enjoy the evening. Rob and I both ordered beans on toast (a balanced and nutritious meal for any time of day), which the owner personally prepared, and served it gastro-pub style: Three tiny ovals of home baked bread with beans drizzled around the sides. Rob and I each looked at our plates, then at each other, and then at him. He got the message and suggested he bought us a basket of toast to go with it.
[photo: Clear early morning light at Cod Beck]
The earlier than usual start made for a stunning clear light as we climbed up onto high ground for the first time in several days. We had both benefited from the long rest following the fast stage yesterday and started fresh, although Rob's continuing heel injury was a clear cause for alarm.
He was uncomfortable from the start. Not great, on what would be our longest hardest day. I felt that he wouldn't be able to do it and offered to walk the stage alone, and for him to travel with Suzi and our bags. He dismissed this, so I moved on to suggesting decision points before half-way where he could be potentially collected. He dismissed this also. He was clearly determined to go all the way no matter what.
And he did. This was a magnificent performance of guts and persistence by any standards. Starting out on a long day with an injury that is already painful and knowing it will only get worse is a difficult thing to overcome mentally as well as physically. This was an awesome effort.
[photo: Following the Lyke Wake Walk]
Our route initially followed the early miles of the Lyke Wake Walk and the Cleveland Way. However, after the opening miles, rather than following the line of the Cleveland Hills we opted for a slightly longer lower level route to the halfway point. This ran over the moor to Chop Gate and then to Seave Green, where we accessed Urra Moor.
[photo: Approaching the snow-line again]
[photo: Pathfinding]
Quickly above the snow-line we pounded on towards Round Hill (the top of the moor) through ever deepening snow. It was a rough but beautiful walk. Despite his handicap Rob led with a strong pace. In all we covered 20 miles and enough ups and down to exhaust The Grand Old Duke of York and his 10,000 men in a little over 8 hours.
[photo: Urra Moor, a wild and beautiful place]
[photo: Top of the moor, Round Hill]
Continuing east after Round Hill and through Bloworth Crossing we entered the final long phase of our walk. This follows a disused railway line for 7 miles, hugging the tops of the valleys until Blakey Ridge is reached and beyond. There is no need for maps or GPS here. Navigation is a no-brainier, and despite the spectacular surroundings, the sameness of the underfoot terrain and the creeping tiredness make this a hard-core section. It is a case of put your head down and keep on marching.
[photo: Heather burning]
[photo: The old railway line, final miles of our march]
Finally The Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge came into view, and ever so slowly, via our circuitous railway line route we edged towards it. As our path passed below the inn we turned off and up one final hill to our destination. It was a triumphant arrival. We had blasted through our longest day.
It was an epic day and one and one of the highlights of my hill-walking career. We hadn't just overcome the challenge, we'd given it a thoroughly good spanking.
[photo: Our destination, The Lion Inn]
I had a very happy evening at The Lion, reunited with Carol and surrounded by family and friends, and on the back of a very satisfying day in the hills.
Sherpa Dave, Ali and Mum returned for the night along with my nephew Harry. Juliet and Douglas, my most regular visitors, were there too. Emma, Gabby, Simon, Reece and of course McKenzie also arrived and will now spend rest of coast to coast with me.
[photos: Celebrations at The Lion]
Finally on this day ...
After my last knee operation eight years ago the surgeon advised me to take it easy, and warned that if I continued to run (in my case, jog) and climb hills I would be walking with a stick by the time I was 50.
He was almost right ...
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