Winter has arrived. Snow all around. Woohoo.
Decent walk today, after a fashion. Out for nearly four hours, although it has to be said that I was only properly walking for about half of that time. The rest was spent at the park sledging, or rather dodging the manned missiles sliding down the slopes and helping my grandson back up with his sledge after each run. Anyway I feel comfortable with this routine of walking most days. Feeling good.
Kenilworth Castle Today
I won't be doing the Coast to Coast alone. Sure, I'm the
only one planning to walk every step from west to east, but I will have some
fantastic support from a core group of family and close friends along the way.
Actually, when I "went public" with my idea I got a really positive
response from the people I know. Many expressed interest but couldn't commit to
anything specific, whilst others wished me well and asked to be kept informed.
What follows is an introduction to my core team. Those
closest to me who are prepared to commit in advance and put their own plans on
hold for a time to help me out.
My brother Dave was first to volunteer, with sister-in-law
Ali and my mum quickly following. It's apt then that the three of them will be
my support team for the first part of the expedition, getting me up to St Bees
and on my way east.
To say Dave isn't really a walker is being a bit
diplomatic. I've invited him on trips several times over the years and I've
always had a straight refusal. Occasionally saying he'd love to but he's just
picked up some obscure injury, but mainly just telling me not to be so silly.
Given this ambivalence to what I choose to do for fun it is all the more
impressive that he's put his hand up for these first hard-yards.
Dave and I share an unusual and unique sense of humour.
It's kind of hard to define, but there are some things that only he and I find
funny, and we'll be chuckling along together whilst others in the room didn't
even notice the event or line that tickled us so. It's the kind of sense of
humour that means you end up laughing alone quite often, and sometimes laughing
alone in public places.
Dave is the first of two Dave’s who will
be playing a big part in supporting me, so to avoid any potential confusion, from
here on in this Dave will be known as Sherpa Dave (because he will be transporting
me and my gear around for me – not because he has a lifetime of experience
climbing in the Himalayas).
Unlike Sherpa Dave, Ali does get why I'm doing it. She was
an enthusiastic supporter from the off, and straight away I privately pencilled
her in to walk the first two days with me, or at least one of them. At the time
she was preparing to walk the Great North Run, and my secret plan was looking
good. Then it all started to unravel. Ali completed her walk in triumph, but in
doing so undertook never to do it again. Since then she's shared with me
harrowing tales of broken and blackened toenails, of sore feet and legs and
pain that last for weeks afterwards, and other discomforts still clear in her
memory.
So, I've opted for a short-ish and easy-ish first day in
the hope I can talk her round. We'll see. Realistically I think I have to
accept that I'll be doing most of day two on my own, maybe meeting up with the
three of them for the final few miles into Borrowdale. That second day is one
of the hardest on the route.
Not too long ago my mum would've done the whole lot with
me. She loves the hills like I do, and we climbed Haystacks together a couple
of years ago on a beautiful cold early spring day, with snow and ice still thick
on the ground. A memorable experience for both of us I think. She walks most
days but the Coast to Coast would probably be a bit of a stretch. There is no
doubt though that she will walk some of the way on these first two days, and
this will be one of the highlights of the expedition for me.
Saturday is changeover day. Carol arrives for the weekend
on Friday night along with Simon. The two of them worked together some time ago
but have stayed in touch along with a small group from that time. I've kind of
become attached to the group through walking: They meet each month or so in the
warmer months and walk locally, and socially. With a Sunday morning walk
usually followed by a pub lunch. It was during these outings that Simon and I
compared notes and realised that we had a shared interest, especially with
regard to the Lake District, and we undertook to do something together. Well,
to cut a long story short this will be the first time. There always seems to
have been a reason why Simon couldn't make our trips, and I was starting to
think he was trying to tell me something? In fairness the last time we
attempted to get together he was pretty committed. On this occasion we called
off a wild camping trip at the very last moment because of storms in Cumbria. Sure
enough the area hit the news that evening with reports of flooding and
associated chaos.
As Sherpa Dave and crew head home Carol and Simon will walk
day three with me, and probably part of day four on the Sunday. These days
aren't too tough and run through the heart of the Lakes. Given some half decent
weather it should be an excellent weekend.
Carol and Simon will head back to the midlands sometime on
day four so the descent into Patterdale on this day, and the long march over
the High Street range to Bampton on day five will be solo. This will be my
first completely unaccompanied section, and one of the harder days. It is
likely to be the first big test of whether I can hack it. It is across perhaps
my favourite part of the district though and I have visited most of the route
before. I should at least be able to survive!
The prize after my five day crossing of the Lakes from St
Bees will be a night at the Mardale Inn in Bampton. When planning my route I
had two pre-defined stop-off points: The Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge, much later
in the walk, and the Mardale Inn. Love this place. Here I will be joined by
Ash, who will accompany me through the unexplored territory between Lakes and
Dales.
Ash and I are long term friends, and have been best man for
each other, godfather to children, etc. Our initial meeting was completely by
chance in that we were placed in lodgings together as wet-behind-the-ears first
year students at Sheffield Polytechnic (a university now of course). There are
many many stories I could share about Ash, but discretion leads me to stick to
those that are relevant to his role on Coast to Coast.
If Ash had been around in days of old he would have been
Wolfstan the Anglo Saxon warrior, yomping to Stamford Bridge to take a
thrashing from the Vikings and then summoning what’s left of his army marching back down south to do the same
again at the hands of the Normans. He is unfazed by adversity and simply
doesn't know how to give up.
We did the Lyke Wake Walk together a couple of years ago.
The Lyke Wake Walk is a 40 mile trek across the Yorkshire Moors, following a
very similar route to the final stages of Coast to Coast as it happens. It
involves total ascent and descent of something like 6,000 feet and takes you
across all manner of terrain, the highlight (lowlight?) of which is several
miles of peat bog mid-route. The idea is to complete the walk in less than 24
hours. We first attempted the challenge in the January, with little in the way
of support: Basically my cousin's mate drove us there and offered sympathy at
the meeting points along the way. Walking across the frozen moor through the
night, lit by the moon and stars is still one of my lifetime walking
highlights. Navigation is not all easy on the Lyke Wake though and the lack of
daylight at that time of year eventually ended the attempt as we went into the
second night!
We returned later in the year for a second attempt. My son
Rob joined the walking team, and my good friend Dave (who will become Walking
Dave – see later) provided
outstanding support. This is how to be a support crew. The rest of us had to do
nothing other than walk (and take care of bodily functions). Dave looked after
everything else, the highlight being hot homemade soup at half way just before
dawn. Dave had set up stove in the middle of the moor in complete darkness to
make us this meal. The four of us have remained a close walking group over
several years now. Much more about Dave and Rob later.
This time we were successful, or at least Ash was. I
stopped two miles from the end in protest at the madness of the challenge,
swearing at the same time never to visit this part of Yorkshire again, let
alone set foot on its’ footpaths. How things change?
Anyway, during those final few miles I was nearing
exhaustion, and had pretty much shut down every bodily function that wasn't
essential to putting one foot in front of the other. Let's say I was not
terribly chatty. Ash on the other hand went all motivational on me, leaping
around the path passionately making the case to me that we were on the edge of
something magnificent, something life changing, something we would tell our
grandchildren about. We just needed to keep moving for another couple of hours.
Together we would succeed, crossing the line arm in arm to a rapturous welcome
from locals in awe of our achievement. I think I told him to get lost, or words
to that effect. I couldn't work out why I was in so much pain whilst he seemed
to be moving with ease and energy to spare to taunt me in this way? The man ran
the final yards to the finish for goodness sake!
Within minutes he collapsed into a heap. I saw then that he
had been in just as much distress as me, it's just that instinctively he
wouldn't allow himself to falter. He would have kept going even if we still had
another ten miles to go. We are different. I manage my limitations to get the
best out of myself, Ash just blasts through to the end no matter what and pays
the price later. Of course, this could be an interesting cocktail when we meet
on the Coast to Coast. After five hard days crossing the mountains I will
probably be ready for a bit of a coast (no pun). I suspect Ash will be raring
to go and ready to dispense some more of his motivational coaching.
Ash is due to leave the walk at Kirkby Stephen, leaving me
to my final solo leg of the journey. This is day eight, to the half-way point
at Keld. Here I will be joined by my son Rob, who will walk with me for the
second half.
Being his Dad I'm probably not best positioned to provide
an objective view on Rob. Basically though he has grown into the sort of man I
always wanted to be. He is stronger, brighter, more likeable, and a better
person than me. But then I would say that wouldn't I.
I like to feel we have a good relationship and are mates as
well as father and son. In fact Rob is my original walking partner, and he
still rarely misses out on an expedition. It's a real shared passion, although
I sometimes feel he may be getting impatient as he keeps on having to wait for
me to catch up! My big wish at the outset was that he would walk the final
steps into Robin Hood's Bay with me. Not only has he committed to this, but he
has managed to carve enough time away from work and university to do the final
week with me. I'm made up.
A day later Dave will join us for a three day stint,
covering the transition from Dales to Moors. Dave is a great mate. Supportive,
non-judgemental, and always always positive. He has a tremendous capacity for
fun, and for beer.
He is also prone to bouts of creative brilliance. I worked
with him for a while and I felt we were a pretty formidable combination, with
his gift for generating great ideas allied to my ability to turn the best of
them into something. I really hope we get to do it again sometime.
I'm pretty sure he enjoys hill walking these days. This
wasn't always so and his induction was difficult for both of us. Being someone
who embraces new experiences wholeheartedly he didn't hesitate when I first
invited him along. Pretty quickly though the burn of that first ascent took
hold and the novelty wore off. It was also unfortunate that most of his first
outings seemed to coincide with some pretty foul weather conditions, although
this was probably a useful learning experience for Dave as he discovered just
how bad it had to be before I'd call off a walk!
On one of these early walks I also got us spectacularly
lost in the hills around Coniston. The murk came down to such a degree that
visibility reduced to just a few metres, the wind wound up furiously causing
the rain to come up at us rather than down as it blew off the ridge. In the
storm even with our bulk Dave and I could barely keep our feet, whilst poor old
Rob was blown around like a twig, coat turned inside out and rucksack torn from
his back. My GPS became waterlogged and trying to open a map in the conditions
was futile. Staying put wasn't an attractive option. I tried to navigate by
instinct and memory, and recalling cliffs close on the right kept us a safe
distance to the left. Too far as it happens and we ended up in the wrong
valley! I can't print most of the things he said to me on the long trudge into
Little Langdale (yes - look at the map!), but I'm pleased he didn't manage to
catch up with me until we found a pub.
Dave has revolutionised our wild camping experience. At
first Rob and I used to survive on Pot Noodle and lug full packs at all times.
This included on one sweaty early summer day a full traverse of Scafell with
40lb packs! Dave talked us into base camping on his first expedition with us,
whereby we walk to the vicinity of our target hills, set up camp, dump our gear
and head for the summits. This is now our norm. Our menu has also taken a
boost, to the point where Dave has now perfected vacuum-packed-home-cooked
meals. Accompanied by squeezy-tube cheese and crackers and washed down with a
little Jaegermeister. Lovely.
This Dave will now be called “Walking
Dave”.
So you've met my three walking muckers. Great friends and
companions all. I will remind Ash and Walking Dave though that only Rob has put
his hand up to walk with me on my birthday. This happens to be longest toughest
stage on the walk. We have a fair few people joining us at Blakey Ridge in the
evening. I hope to be in a fit state to celebrate with them.
Carol returns to the walk at Blakey, and will stay with me
for the rest of the journey, walking some sections and maybe spending some time
at the coast. It wasn't so long ago that she was only happy walking when she
was going to the shops. Bit by bit though she's started to appreciate walking
for it's own sake. And she's pretty accomplished too.
She is very patient with me if I'm honest, including on one
occasion when we camped in the rain in a tent that was cosy even for two people
as close as we are, and then walked up Skiddaw the long way. She didn't
complain once. The one thing Carol draws the line at is running (in my case,
jogging). She says it's for convicts and stupid people. Well, I'm not on the
run from the law as far as I know!
We met through work in 1995 and each have our own version
of who moved on who. Since then we've been pretty much inseparable. The nine
days between her stints on the Coast to Coast will be the longest time we've
been apart. I will miss her very much.
More snow and freezing temperatures forecast over the next few days. It must be the kid in me but I like it. Somehow the fun element outweighs the inconvience to daily life it can cause. The snow also makes walking a bit more challenging. Got to be good practice.
Hi Ian - Juliet here!!! Your blogs are keeping me very entertained and giving me insight into the real "Ian". Also it is scaring me to death that I might not want to walk so far!!!!!
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